I was considering throwing out or more likely trading the top for my Scout II for parts when I decided to restore it. This is the before shot. It was being used as a paint bench. The white on the windows was overspray from some 2K epoxy primer I had left in the gun from painting the Scout that I used on the top to cover the rust. Purely for cosmetic purposes while it was sitting in the yard.
The drip rail sealant had failed and was leaking inside and rusting.
The rear top frame spot welds were broken at the back so that the sides would bow out and the back end was not in alignment.
Holes in the roof from removing the factory roof rack.
Surface rust all over and a few dents.
The one saving grace was that the rust was on the surface and not through anywhere and the tailgate was in very good condition.
Took me about 4 hours to:
Scrape all the gutter sealant out, replace it with new professional body sealant for gutters.
First job was to clean out and re-seal the drip rail after I welded up the rack mount holes. I set the top on two perfectly level 6x6's, on gravel so I adjusted with a shovel and then used a ratchet strap to squeeze it together at the back just right and then re-do the tack welds holding the sides in.
Took the roof rack off and welded up the holes and ground them down flat ready for paint. You can see the black spray paint I used to touch up after I welded in the photo of the sealant. The Fusor 800DTM is da bomb. I did a lot of research and it is absolutely great to work with and rock solid when it dries. Don't bother using anything else. Not cheap but worth it.
I have a total of about 2 hours of welding experience and my welder is a 25-year-old Clarke 220 Volt. If I can do it with that anybody can.
Took me about 6 hours to:
Sand the surface rust down from the entire outside so that it was relatively smooth. but not perfect, for sure. I wasn't worried about rust coming through bedliner and it hasn't so far.
I put the top on two sawhorses and prepped for paint with the rear hatch removed.
I sprayed the top and rear hatch with 2k Epoxy Primer.
Finished the outside with GM White tinted U-Pol Raptor Bedliner. The tinted bedliner does not come out to an exact match as it is a very light opaque grey to start but it is close enough for my needs.
I applied the bedliner using a Wagner MotoCoat which did a good job but I would recommend using the UPOL adjustable Schutz gun as it would be far easier to load and clean than the MotoCoat.
I painted the inside of the back hatch with a custom-blended rattle can of GM White.
The bottom two pictures are the result after about $300 in materials.
If you want to make it happen it will!